‘The Gift of Fashion’ exhibition on view until Jan. 30, 2027
Glitz, glamour, billowing fabric and lots and lots of sequins: fall in love with Italian haute couture this fall at The Gift of Fashion, now on display at the Jan Shrem and Maria Manetti Shrem Museum of Art.
In the new exhibition, Italian art, architecture and design interact with one woman’s unique taste and sensibilities, featuring seven couture gowns by designers Roberto Capucci and Dolce & Gabbana, as well as 16 bespoke pieces of jewelry — all from the personal collection of the museum’s namesake, Maria Manetti Shrem.
This is the first exhibition of its kind at the museum not only because it features high fashion but also because its curator is taking a full course load at UC Davis.
Maev Dunning, a second-year design M.F.A. student has been working on the exhibition alongside co-curator Tim McNeil, professor of design, since February. Dunning previously helped put together Light Into Density, which was curated by a team of students and featured paintings from Manetti Shrem’s home.
In showing these objects, we're telling the story of Mrs. Manetti Shrem, her philanthropy, her legacy of sharing art and, specifically, what she's sharing here, which is a really rich history of very dedicated artisans and how that shows through in Italian couture.
Research and inspiration
It can take years of experience and a catalog of strong working relationships to be able to build such an original and elaborate exhibition in such a short amount of time, according to McNeil. So, for a student to have the opportunity to put it all together and work with a client to design an exhibition that actually comes to life, he said, is invaluable.
But the first step is always research.
To prepare, Dunning looked at examples of other fashion exhibitions, taking into account how the garments were displayed individually, on which type of mannequin or dress form, and together, in pairs, trios and groups of three or four. In the original design lookbook Dunning created, she included images from fashion exhibitions held at the Crocker Art Museum in Sacramento and the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, from locations in Spain and Paris, and from traveling exhibitions.
"We had the object list established from the beginning and, from there, it was really up to us to figure out, ‘OK, what story do we want to tell with this?’” Dunning recalled. “How do we make these objects really shine? Because they are literally glittering, shimmering objects.”
She considered questions such as: Should the surrounding environment be simple or extravagant? What will give viewers enough of a view to appreciate the details of each dress and item of jewelry? What context will they need? What are the needs of museum visitors and what are the expectations of Manetti Shrem herself?
What is couture fashion?
To be couture, or high fashion, a garment must be custom made and custom fit, with quality fabrics and extreme attention to detail.
The term comes from “haute couture,” literally meaning “high sewing” or “high dressmaking” in French. The term has been regulated in France since 1945, with specific rules about what can legally be considered “haute couture.” The same legal restrictions don't exist in Italy, where Manetti Shrem was born, and which had its own couture system.
Italian design is among the finest in the world, with a rich legacy rooted in exceptional craftsmanship and artistic excellence. The haute couture and high jewelry pieces featured in this collection represent the highest expression of that tradition, showcasing extraordinary skill, creativity and attention to detail.
— Maria Manetti Shrem
Known for luxury Italian fashion, couture gowns by Dolce & Gabbana can take a year to go from concept to creation and, while the idea for a gown may come from a single person, it can take a team of six 2,700 hours of work to bring it to life. One gown may require up to 11 pounds of material.
“We're telling the story of how these pieces are created, how they come to be and so, something that was really exciting about the process of working on this, was actually getting to talk to people at Dolce & Gabbana and hear directly from them what it takes to make a gown like this,” Dunning said.
The pieces featured in The Gift of Fashion: From the Maria Manetti Shrem Haute Couture Collection were especially made for Manetti Shrem to wear at operas, galas and other red-carpet events. She had a hand in how each item came together, pulling inspiration from Italy’s nature, art and architecture as well as her beloved dog, Gioia.
Custom displays for custom attire
For months, the design and museum teams worked together to figure out how best to present the collection of gowns and jewelry.
“One of the challenges with this was, how do we explain the distinction between these objects and also connect them?” Dunning said.
The team decided on using a pattern inspired by one of the final dresses on display, a Dolce & Gabbana georgette cady kaftan embroidered with raffia and crystals, that have complimentary colors with the exhibition's opening dress, a silk evening gown by Roberto Capucci. The colors from the Capucci — royal blue, green, red and purple — guide visitors through as they make their way down a, not red, but green carpet.
Because of the value and heaviness of each gown — sequins, crystals and other embellishments add even more weight — the team would need to order and install custom mannequins and platforms to display them safely and upright. And, like some other artwork, all the natural light that usually streams through the north lounge of the Manetti Shrem Museum had to be blocked with custom-made velvet drapes to protect the gowns from degradation.
Similarly, the weight, size and value of the couture jewelry brought in added another dimension to consider: security. The jewelry, too, would need sealed, custom ordered display cases.
A peacock on its pedestal
The centerpiece of the exhibition is a Dolce & Gabbana georgette gown that features 350,000 sequins, a floral motif, and a sapphire peacock pattern on its train. The team used a larger display platform for the dress, allowing visitors an almost 360-degree view of all the details.
“With this gown, in particular, we put a lot of thought into how to show it because it's one that is just incredible from any angle you look at it from,” Dunning said.
“It just pulls you right into the space,” McNeil added.
Thoughtful drapery, lighting and mirrors add drama and luxury to the displays. But, other than some simple facts, anecdotes and select quotes from the woman who wore the clothes, text in the exhibition is minimal.
The dresses, McNeil said, speak for themselves.
Want even more fashion?
Drop by the Design Museum to experience the textile works of U.K. artist Lynn Setterington through Nov. 20, and visit the Manetti Shrem Museum on Saturdays throughout November to design a unique fabric collage at Art Spark. (No Art Spark on Nov. 14) Entry and activities are always free.
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